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The book is a personal and reflective account of the author's travels and experiences in the English countryside. The author visits various villages, towns, and landscapes, observing the natural world, meeting local people, and reflecting on the human connection to the environment. Throughout the book, the author expresses a deep appreciation for the beauty of nature and the importance of preserving it for future generations. They also touch on themes such as the impact of human activity on the environment, the decline of rural life, and the significance of literary and cultural heritage. The author's writing is characterized by a sense of wonder, curiosity, and nostalgia, as they explore the complexities of the human relationship with the natural world. The book is a collection of vignettes, each chapter describing a different place or experience, but together they form a cohesive narrative that celebrates the beauty and diversity of the English countryside.
The chapter discusses the importance of guidebooks in helping people navigate and understand the places they visit. However, the author argues that relying too heavily on guidebooks can detract from the experience of discovery and the joy of encountering new things. The author recounts a personal experience of visiting a small ancient town and discovering its beauty without prior knowledge from a guidebook. They also describe a visit to a church in the wood, where they heard a unique and beautiful sound that was not mentioned in any guidebook. The author suggests that the charm of the unknown and the pleasure of discovery are essential to a fulfilling travel experience.
The chapter discusses the author's preference for not revisiting places where they have experienced delightful surprises, as it can lead to disillusionment and spoil the mental image of the place. The author recounts their visit to a small ancient town, where they discovered a beautiful scene, but later found that the place had been over-publicized and lost its charm. They also describe their encounter with a parish priest who had a unique and enigmatic personality. The author reflects on the importance of preserving the mental image of a place and not trying to recreate the experience, as it can never be the same. They also touch on the theme of the continuity of human life and the connection between people and places, highlighting the sense of satisfaction and peace that comes from knowing that one is part of a larger, unbroken chain of human experience.
The chapter discusses the author's preference for walking over cycling, citing the intimacy with people and places that walking provides. The author recounts a story of staying with a poor family in a hamlet, where they were taken in despite the family's struggles, and reflects on the kindness and generosity of the people they met. The author also describes a visit to a seaside town, where they observed a crowd of people, mostly women and children, and noted the predominance of a particular physical type, the large English blonde. The author is struck by the beauty and charm of the people, particularly the children, and reflects on the joy and freedom of the scene. The chapter also touches on the author's visit to a village, where they met a woman and her two little girls, who were of a different physical type, with dark hair and eyes, and who possessed a wild and volatile spirit. The author is drawn to the girls' energy and joy, and reflects on the beauty of their appearance and the charm of their personalities.
The chapter "Seeking a Shelter" describes the author's experience of seeking accommodation in a village during one of his Easter walks. After being rejected by several villagers, he meets a young man who offers to take him to his family's house, where he is welcomed by the woodman and his family. The author is struck by the woodman's noble features and dignified demeanor, which contrast with the ordinary villagers. The family is revealed to be a close-knit and religious community, with the woodman having built a chapel adjacent to their house. However, their tranquility is disrupted by the return of the woodman's 16-year-old son, who has learned to smoke while visiting relatives and now wishes to continue the habit, causing distress to his family. The author also visits a nearby seaside town, where he observes a crowd of people, mostly women and children, and is struck by the prevalence of a particular physical type, the large English blonde. He notes the beauty and charm of the people, particularly the children, and reflects on the joy and freedom of the scene. The author also encounters a woman and her two little girls, who are of a different physical type, with dark hair and eyes, and possess a wild and volatile spirit. The chapter concludes with the author's reflections on the beauty of the natural world and the human experience, and the importance of appreciating the simple pleasures in life.
The chapter "Wind, Wave, and Spirit" recounts the author's experiences and observations during a visit to a small town on the Norfolk coast. The town is described as being built with orange-brown stone and having a stark, ugly appearance. The author notes that the town is overcrowded with late summer visitors, and the atmosphere is one of discomfort and restlessness. However, the author finds solace in the company of a poor woman and her son, who take them in and provide warmth and hospitality. The woman's story is one of hardship and struggle, having fled from her husband and started a new life in the town. The author is struck by the beauty of the woman's son, who has a passion for nature and is full of energy and life. The chapter also describes the author's observations of the crowd of visitors, noting the prevalence of a particular physical type, the large English blonde, and the contrast between this type and a woman and her two daughters, who are of a different, darker physical type. The author reflects on the beauty of the natural world and the human experience, and the importance of appreciating the simple pleasures in life. The chapter concludes with a description of a day of perfect summer weather, where the author experiences a sense of transcendence and connection to the natural world, feeling that the boundaries between the self and the world are dissolved.
The chapter "By Swallowfield" recounts the author's visit to the village of Swallowfield, where Mary Russell Mitford lived and wrote. The author describes the village as having changed since Mitford's time, with the cottage where she lived now being a "Temperance Hotel" and the surrounding area developed with red-brick houses and villas. The author visits Mitford's monument in the churchyard and reflects on her life and writing, noting that while her ambitious works have fallen into obscurity, her letters and the book "Our Village" remain charming and enduring. The author also describes their own experiences walking through the village and surrounding countryside, including a visit to the nearby village of Silchester, where they attend a church service and see butterflies trapped in the church windows. The chapter concludes with the author's thoughts on the continuity of human life and the connection between people and places, highlighting the sense of satisfaction and peace that comes from knowing that one is part of a larger, unbroken chain of human experience.
The chapter describes the author's visit to Roman Calleva, also known as Silchester, a historic site in England. The author stands on an ancient earthwork, surrounded by oak woods and underwood, and reflects on the history of the site, which dates back to prehistoric times. The author notes the difference in feeling between being in a place with a rich history and human associations, and being in a wilderness or new country with no links to the past. The author feels a sense of satisfaction and security in knowing that they are part of a continuous human presence in the area, and that the natural world is intertwined with human history. The author also observes the wildlife in the area, including a ring snake, blue stock-doves, and a group of small birds seeking warmth and company on a cold day. The author witnesses a comedic scene in which a sick blackbird is teased by a chaffinch, but ultimately fights back and chases the chaffinch away. The chapter concludes with the author reflecting on the importance of human associations and the interconnectedness of all things, and expressing a desire for a closer alliance and harmony between people and the natural world.
The chapter describes the author's return to Silchester after a long absence, where he finds the common to be dry in the spring but now sinkable in the bog. The snipe have returned to their old breeding spot, and the author seeks shelter from the cold wind by the old grey wall of Calleva. There, he observes a group of small birds, including tits, wrens, and blackbirds, congregated on a bramble bush, seeking warmth and company. A chaffinch teases a rusty and forlorn-looking blackbird, but the blackbird eventually fights back and chases the chaffinch away. The author reflects on the entertainment value of this bird comedy and the importance of human associations in appreciating the natural world. He also watches the excavations at Silchester, where workers are uncovering the foundations of the ancient city, and expresses a desire for a closer alliance and harmony between people and nature. The author appreciates the beauty of the ivy that covers the old walls and the way it beautifies decay, and he enjoys the sounds of the owls that inhabit the walls at night.
The chapter "Rural Rides" is a personal and reflective account of the author's experiences cycling through the Hampshire countryside. The author describes the joys of cycling and observing birds, but also notes the dangers that birds face from cyclists. The author visits the village of Coombe, where they meet the vicar and learn about the village's history and the story of a notorious murder that took place there. The author also visits the Rookery, a farm-house where William Cobbett once stayed, and discovers a book of sonnets written by the late squire of Norton. The sonnets reveal a wise and beneficent mind, and the author is struck by the contrast between the squire's writings and his reputation as a proud and formal man. The chapter also touches on the theme of social class and the barriers that exist between people of different backgrounds. The author reflects on the importance of human connections and the need to break down social barriers in order to truly appreciate the beauty of rural life.
The chapter discusses the author's visit to the village of Norton, where he meets a baker and his wife who take him in and provide hospitality. The author learns about the story of the late squire of Norton, who was a proud and formal man, but also a wise and beneficent mind, as revealed through his book of sonnets. The author reflects on the theme of social class and the barriers that exist between people of different backgrounds, and how these barriers can prevent true connections and understanding. The chapter also touches on the idea that the natural world can bring people together and provide a sense of community, as seen in the author's conversations with the baker and his wife, and his observations of the birds and wildlife in the area.
The chapter "Salisbury and Its Doves" describes the author's visit to Salisbury, where he finds solace in the cathedral and its surroundings. He is particularly drawn to the doves that inhabit the building, and he spends hours watching them and listening to their cooing sounds. The author also meets an old man who works at the cathedral and learns about the history of the doves and their behavior. He discovers that the doves are stock-doves, a shy woodland species, and that they have been living on the cathedral for as long as anyone can remember. The author is fascinated by the doves and their ability to thrive in the town, and he reflects on the beauty of their cooing sounds and the joy of watching them.
The chapter "Whitesheet Hill" describes the author's experience on Easter Saturday, where they observe children gathering primroses by the river Nadder. The author decides to spend the day on Whitesheet Hill, the highest point in the area, to escape the cold and windy weather. Despite the bleak and desolate landscape, the author spots a female wheatear and later a male wheatear, which they bury after finding it dead. The author reflects on the beauty of the wheatear and the mystery of death, wondering what happens to the spirit of the bird after it dies. The chapter also touches on the author's observation of other birds, including magpies, a kestrel, and a carrion crow, and their interactions with each other. Additionally, the author discusses the presence of elder trees on the downs, which are often considered out of place, but are actually planted by birds such as the wheatear.
The chapter "Bath and Wells Revisited" describes the author's return to the cities of Bath and Wells after a five-year absence. The author is struck by the beauty and harmony of Bath, with its wide, clean streets, solid stone-built houses, and large distances between terraces. However, upon seeking out old friends and acquaintances, the author is saddened by the changes they have undergone and the passing of time. The author visits the abbey in Bath, admiring its interior and the numerous memorial tablets on the walls, including one to the actor James Quin. The author also encounters a botanist who is searching for the memorial to John Sibthorpe, a distinguished botanist who died in Bath. The author learns about Sibthorpe's life and work, including his authorship of the Flora Graeca, and is impressed by the beauty of the memorial. The author then travels to Wells, where they are struck by the beauty of the cathedral and the surrounding countryside. However, the author is again saddened by the changes they see in the people they meet, and reflects on the passing of time and the fleeting nature of human connections.
The chapter "The Return of the Native" discusses the author's thoughts on returning to a place that holds fond memories and charm. The author reflects on how revisiting a famous town or city is different from returning to a place that has left a lasting impression on one's mind. The author also shares a story about a man who returns to his childhood home in England after many years abroad, and how he finally finds the old farmhouse he had been searching for. The chapter also touches on the theme of nostalgia and the passing of time, and how it can be both joyful and melancholic to revisit places and people from one's past.
The chapter "Summer Days on the Otter" describes the author's experiences and observations during a visit to a small village in South Devon, near the River Otter. The author is initially dissatisfied with the surroundings, feeling confined by the high hedges and green trees, but eventually finds pleasure in watching the wildlife, particularly the birds, along the river. The author observes a pair of crows and their young, and notes the unusual behavior of one of the young crows, which opens its mouth to beg for food from the author. The author also discovers a second crow's nest with three fully fledged young, and is struck by the eerie sight of one of the crows with crimson eyes, which seems almost diabolical. The author reflects on the possibility that the crimson color in the crow's eyes may be a pathological condition, and notes that similar cases have been observed in humans and other animals. The chapter ends with the author leaving the village, feeling a sense of relief and freedom, and walking along the coast, where he encounters a cowman driving a herd of cows and engages in a conversation about the animals. The author is struck by the cowman's affection for the cows and his desire to treat them with kindness and respect.
The chapter "In Praise of the Cow" describes the author's encounter with a cowman who is driving a herd of milch cows along a deep lane. The author is impressed by the cowman's love and care for his cows, and they engage in a conversation about the animals. The cowman shares his experiences and knowledge about cows, including their behavior, emotions, and intelligence. The author is particularly struck by the cowman's affection for one of the cows, which is allowed to keep its calf and is therefore very happy. The chapter also touches on the theme of the relationship between humans and animals, and the author expresses his admiration for the cowman's gentle and compassionate nature. The author also recalls his own experiences with cows in other parts of the country, and notes that they are often silent due to being separated from their calves. The chapter concludes with the author's reflection on the beauty and majesty of cows, and his hope that they will be treated with kindness and respect.
The author reflects on their journey to a small village, where they encountered a young woman who shared stories about the village and its people. The author was struck by the woman's beauty and the village's charm, but also acknowledges the presence of tragedy and hardship in the lives of its inhabitants. The author then visits the village of Branscombe, which they found to be a quaint and unspoilt place, with a strong sense of community among its residents. They observe the local wildlife, including birds and cows, and appreciate the village's natural beauty. The author also visits the city of Salisbury, where they admire the cathedral and its surroundings, and reflect on the importance of human connections and the beauty of nature. Additionally, the author discusses their experiences at Stonehenge, where they witnessed the summer solstice and observed the behavior of the people gathered there. They also visit the village of Troston, which has a rich literary history, and reflect on the life and work of the poet Robert Bloomfield. The author appreciates Bloomfield's poetry, particularly his poem "The Farmer's Boy", which they find to be a unique and valuable portrayal of rural life in England.
The chapter describes the author's visit to the village of Branscombe, where he finds a quaint and unspoilt place with a strong sense of community among its residents. He observes the local wildlife, including birds and cows, and appreciates the village's natural beauty. The author also visits the nearby coastline, where he watches a colony of herring-gulls and is struck by their beauty and unique behavior. He reflects on the importance of human connections and the beauty of nature, and expresses a desire for a closer alliance and harmony between people and the natural world. The author's experiences in Branscombe are juxtaposed with his thoughts on the decline of rural life and the impact of human activities on the environment.
The chapter begins with the author's description of his journey to the village of Abbotsbury, where he is struck by the beauty of the surrounding countryside and the village itself. He visits the famous swannery and is impressed by the number of swans, but notes that some of them fly away over the sea, leading him to wonder if they ever return. The author also describes the Chesil Bank, a long stretch of pebbles and shingle that runs along the coast, and notes its unique features and the way it protects the land from the sea. He spends some time watching the birds and wildlife in the area, including a group of herring-gulls breeding on the cliff face. The author reflects on the beauty of the natural world and the importance of preserving it, and notes that the owner of Abbotsbury has resisted efforts to exploit the area's natural resources for economic gain. The chapter ends with the author's description of a beautiful sunset over the sea, which fills him with a sense of joy and wonder.
The chapter recounts the author's visit to Salisbury Cathedral, where they observe the stock-doves that inhabit the building. The author reflects on the beauty of the cathedral and the unique characteristics of the doves, as well as the other birds that live there, including kestrels and daws. They also describe the interior of the cathedral, noting its airy and light quality, and the beautiful stained glass windows. The author meets a Scottish man who is visiting the cathedral for the first time and is struck by its beauty. The chapter also touches on the theme of the relationship between humans and nature, and the author's desire to appreciate and preserve the beauty of the natural world. Additionally, the author visits Stonehenge, where they witness the summer solstice and observe the behavior of the people gathered there. They reflect on the history and significance of the site, and the way it has been affected by human activity. The author also describes their experiences walking on Salisbury Plain, where they encounter military personnel and reflect on the impact of human activity on the natural environment.
The chapter describes the author's visit to Stonehenge, a prehistoric monument in England. The author recounts their first visit to Stonehenge, which was a disappointment due to its small size compared to their expectations. However, on subsequent visits, they developed a deeper appreciation for the site and its history. The author notes the unique characteristics of the stones and the surrounding landscape, and describes the experience of watching the sunrise at Stonehenge on the summer solstice. They also reflect on the human activity that has impacted the site, including the construction of a nearby military camp, and the effects of tourism on the natural environment. The author's visits to Stonehenge are interspersed with descriptions of their interactions with local people, including a Scottish man who is visiting the site for the first time, and a group of young men who are watching the sunrise. The chapter concludes with the author's thoughts on the significance of Stonehenge and its place in human history, and the importance of preserving the natural world for future generations.
The chapter discusses the author's visit to Stonehenge, a prehistoric monument in England, and their experiences at the site. The author recounts their first visit to Stonehenge, which was a disappointment due to its small size compared to their expectations. However, on subsequent visits, they developed a deeper appreciation for the site and its history. The author notes the unique characteristics of the stones and the surrounding landscape and describes the experience of watching the sunrise at Stonehenge on the summer solstice. They also reflect on the human activity that has impacted the site, including the construction of a nearby military camp, and the effects of tourism on the natural environment. The author's visits to Stonehenge are interspersed with descriptions of their interactions with local people, including a Scottish man who is visiting the site for the first time, and a group of young men who are watching the sunrise. The chapter concludes with the author's thoughts on the significance of Stonehenge and its place in human history, and the importance of preserving the natural world for future generations. The author also visits a nearby village, where they meet an old woman who shares stories about the village and its people, and they are struck by the beauty of the village and the surrounding countryside.
The chapter "Following a River" describes the author's experience of following the River Exe from its source to the sea. The author is drawn to the river because of its beauty and the sense of connection it provides to the natural world. Along the way, the author encounters various villages, towns, and landscapes, each with its own unique character and charm. The author reflects on the importance of preserving the natural world and the need to protect it from human activities that can harm it. The chapter also touches on the theme of inheritance and how the author's connection to the river is rooted in their family's history and cultural heritage. The author's journey is not just a physical one, but also an emotional and spiritual one, as they seek to reconnect with their past and find a sense of belonging in the present.
The chapter describes the author's visit to the small village of Troston in Suffolk, which has a literary connection to the poet Robert Bloomfield, known as the "Suffolk poet". The author is drawn to the village because of their affection for Bloomfield's work, particularly his poem "The Farmer's Boy". The author reflects on the unique character of Bloomfield's poetry, which describes the life of a farm boy in a rural village, and how it fills a gap in English poetic literature. The author also discusses the circumstances of how they first encountered Bloomfield's work and how it has stayed with them over the years. The chapter also touches on the author's personal connection to the natural world and how it influences their appreciation of literature.
The author recounts their experiences with a retriever dog named Jack, who becomes their constant companion despite initial reservations. Jack is a high-energy dog who loves to hunt and explore the outdoors, but his presence often disrupts the author's observations of wildlife. The author reflects on the unique characteristics of Jack's behavior and the challenges of having a dog as a companion in the natural world. Despite the difficulties, the author develops a bond with Jack and comes to appreciate his enthusiasm and energy. However, the author eventually decides to leave the area, citing the bad weather and the end of the furze bloom as reasons for their departure. The author sneaks away without saying goodbye to Jack, feeling guilty about abandoning their canine companion but believing it is for the best.